Never meant to last, never meant to last.”īuffett was nominated for two Grammy Awards, for “Hey Good Lookin’” - a cover of the Hank Williams classic - and “It’s Five O’Clock Somewhere,” a duet with country superstar Alan Jackson. Thanks for any help.But in an apparent nod to his business pursuits in the song “A Pirate Looks at Forty,” Buffett sang that he “made enough money to buy Miami, but I pissed it away so fast. I'm hoping someone here knows of a sequence or method that might actuate the clutch I'm hoping exists. However I've not yet found an easy way to align the minutes. To fix it I looked up the patent, which has copious text describing the inner workings and exploded drawings. I wonder how that would have held up so long. It looks as is if the film was glued at the seam. I could not find any tape above or below the seem. There is already a seam between the 0 and 1, appearing in the photo as a ridge. Why would that have throw off the alignment?įrom this I conclude that UNLESS the manufacturer included a clutch to help align the numbers, the only ways to align them is to either disassemble the mechanism or to cut the strip. It's perplexing how yours and mine both are out of alignment after removing the motor. The minutes strip is a bit looser than the others, but not loose enough to jigger into proper alignment. Under the 1, the strip winds toward the front and then down and toward the back, at this point engaging several of the spocket teeth on a large clear roller. Interestingly, the rollers under hours and 10 minutes (4 & 3) are designed to spin. The minutes strip winds towards the back around a non-rotating "roller" seen under the numeral 1. The number strips are driven like a filmstrip on a sprocket. However, as with your clock, the minutes don't line up. I can't tell what bulbs it uses but they are probably incandescent, as the bulb leads coming from the motor coil measure 9 VAC and the bulbs themselves measure 5 ohms. The clock radio is transistorized, rated 10 watts, so I don't consider this excessive current draw. It runs hot, close to 150 degrees Fahrenheit, consuming 6 watts according to my Kill-A-Watt. I still got oil on other gears, but the motor is now running. I dripped a drop of turbine oil down a solid 30 ga copper wire touching the rotor shaft. In my case the gears were dry and the repair was to lubricate the rotor. I'd researched synchronous motor repair extensively and almost all the other resources involve pretty much filling the motor with oil. I was able to repair the motor using your method. I have a Juliette FDC-1067 that has a General Time M5 motor that wouldn't run. Last step: folding back the rim and make it look like nothing ever happened (well, almost). The gear is firmly attached and I could even make the rotor spin by turning the outgoing axle. I did a few dry runs before to practise this tricky operation. To apply the glue I first moved the gear a bit to one side, then transferred a tiny bit of glue to the axle using the eye of a needle, and then immediately shifted the gear in place. So I decided to fix it with some superglue. I could slide it a bit on the axle and in some positions it did get a better grip, but did this not feel as a good long term solution. It appeared one plastic gear was slipping on its axle. Unlike the Telechron motors there is no lubrication. The gearbox has mostly metal gears and one or two plastic ones. Inside is what you expect from a synchronous motor: a rotor and a gearbox. Did this very slowly, going round and round in circles, to avoid tearing the aluminium. So I opened up the capsule by carefully folding back the rim of the case. Now I could ofcourse look for a replacement on the internet or ask on this forum, but I thought: I have this motor, it is broken, I have nothing to loose, so why not give it a try? I can at least learn something from taking it apart. You could easily turn the outgoing gear by hand and it felt like something must be slipping inside. The field coil was thus ok, but there was something wrong in the capsule. The motor was running and the outgoing axle axle turned but it could not transmit any load. It has the Westclox ‘fake LED on film’ clock mechanism. Mine I found in a Philips 90RS455 that I’m restoring. I believe this is used in several clocks, mainly Westclox and Seth Thomas, since that is the same company. Hi, I like to share a motor repair I just did that might be of interest to someone.
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